Watch of The Week Wednesday #3

This week we have a custom Black Daytona with a black diamond bezel. Today we are trying out our new camcorder so we put together this short video of the watch. I hope you enjoy it!

Black Rolex Daytona from Time and Gems on Vimeo.

The Submariner Is Still In a Class by Itself

First produced in 1953 and unveiled to the public at the famous Swiss Basel Watch Fair in 1954, the Submariner has gone on to become perhaps the most storied watch in the long history of Rolex. The Datejust may be the most popular and best-selling Rolex for a host of good reasons, but few other than watch collectors and dealers would know it by that name. The Submariner on the other hand is not only well known, but downright famous. Even people who are not hardcore collectors or ‘watch guys’ have heard of the Rolex Submariner. The story of how it came to be seen as the quintessential, ultimate sports watch is interesting and calls for a bit of history.

In the early 1960s the Submariner would have been known to a relative handful of professional and amateur divers as the best divers’ watch on the market. The sport of SCUBA diving was new and Rolex had answered the call for a reliable, waterproof watch with the Submariner to aid divers in timing their dives. In the UK the Royal Navy already issued the watch to its salvage divers and Special Boat Squadron (SBS) Commandos. This was many years before the advent of the digital dive computers that divers rely on today. Then in 1962 something happened that can be summed up in two magical words: James Bond.

That was when Dr. No, the first Bond film starring the incomparably cool Sean Connery as British secret agent 007, hit the big screen. Author Ian Fleming had originally outfitted Bond with an un-named Rolex with “big phosphorous numerals” in his novels, but the Connery film was the first time a specific model was associated with the super-spy. The choice of the film company—the Submariner—was the starting point of the Submariner legend and the rest as they say is history.

Since the days of those early Bond films, many heroes in both Reel and Real life have used the Submariner.Steve McQueen, the once and future King of Cool, wore a Submariner in his personal life as well as in the movie The Hunter. Robert Redford wore one in All the President’s Men, and more recently Nicholas Cage used one in National Treasure, and that’s just scratching the surface of the Submariner’s celluloid usage. More importantly to some, the watch was a favorite of US Navy SEALS and US Army Special Forces (the so-called Green Berets) as well as other globe-trotting adventurers and explorers during the Vietnam War period. In his ground-breaking anthropology work, Norwegian scientist Thor Heyerdahl used his ever-reliable Submariner in the sea-going Ra II expedition of 1970. The expedition proved that ancient mariners could have traversed the Atlantic using the Canary Current. Through it all, the Submariner was there.

Today the Submariner survives in a form that is remarkably similar to the Sub of the 1950s. I own two Subs; one made in 1978, the other in 2008. Externally they are almost identical, and that continuity of design is a big part of the Sub’s appeal and helps them hold their value so well. When you buy a Submariner you don’t have to worry about it looking outdated next year. That timelessness makes the Submariner a true watch for the ages. It looks just as at home with a tuxedo and a dry martini as it does with a wet suit and an underwater torch. Sometimes I’m asked which Rolex a first-time buyer should consider and I usually advise the buyer to get the one that appeals to them the most…but the Submariner is never a bad choice!

Rolex Serial Number Guide Hitherto, owners and collectors of Rolex watches have been able to fairly accurately "date" their Rolex watches due to a case serial number system that has been compiled over the years by Rolex enthusiasts. The serial number tells you when (i.e. what year(spans) a watch is made, however not when it was sold.

Although never officially offered by Rolex, the list over serial numbers on Rolex cases provided Rolex owners with good info as to dating their watch(es).

The serial number can be found between the lugs at six o' clock on all Rolex models except the Deepsea Sea-Dweller and/or the rehaut (angled ring along the dial).

Until mid January 2010, the list comprised the following Rolex serial numbers:

Year	From: To:
1927	20190	21691
1928	23969	24747
1929	28290
1930	29312
1931
1932	29312
1933	29312
1934	30823
1935	34336	35365
1936	36856	37569
1937	40920
1938	43793
1939	71224
1940	99775
1941	106047
1942	143509	202026
1943	230878
1944	269561
1945	302459
1946	367946	387216
1947	529163
1948	628840
1949
1950
1951	709249	710776
1952	726639	840396
1953	793930	973830
1954	976195	43325*
1955		1297**
1956	139400	217821
1957	216821	358***
1958	353343	426510
1959	399***	502683
1960	511687	642993
1961	6469**	702***
1962	763663	894***
1963	95****	1021800
1964	997436	1195238
1965	1193***	1259699
1966	1289727	1557***
1967	1554***	186****
1968	1720977	2477152
1969	2060***	22927**
1970	2504211	2959***
1971	2728***	3037***
1972	305****	3478400
1973	3523678	3741300
1974	3761535	4194183
1975	3886050	4267100
1976	4155863	4538000
1977	5008000	5367817
1978	5238376	5737030
1979	5952834	6122790
1980	6434000
1981	6594***	6910000
1982	7129351	7437845
1983	7862000	8085072
1984	8338000
1985	8624000	8734***
1986	9290000	9764478
1987	9863279

After 1987, a system with a LETTER in front of six numbers was introduced:

Year	Letter
1987	R
1988	L
1990	E
1991	X
1991 (Nov)	N
1992	C
1993	S
1995	W
1996	T
1997 (Aug)	U
1998 (Nov)	A
2000 (Jan)	P
2001 (Sep)	K
2002 (Sep)	Y
2003 (Sep)	F
2005 (Apr)	D
2006 (May)	Z
2007 (Aug)	M
2008 (Aug)	V
2010 (July)	G

UPDATED: July 28, 2010 - G serial for 2010

As stated, a change to the serial number system came in mid January 2010. Now, the numbers do not run from 000000 to 999999 anymore but are made totally at random. Furthermore, there can be two letters in the serial number.

Consequence of this change is that collectors can now no more "date" new Rolex watches since only Rolex has records of the new serial numbers.

Whereas one would initially think that counterfeiters would now have a hard time since there are now not be any lists over serial numbers that can be misused, the fact that the random serial numbers are only known to Rolex offers a new chance for forgerers. They can now just "make up" any number and laser etch that number onto the fake cases. This calls for more frequent checking back with Rolex Service Centers (or Rolex headquarters in Geneva) to verify serial numbers BEFORE buying a new Rolex.

Watch of The Week Wednesday #2

This week we are featuring two special Rolex Submariners that both have been customized.

The first Submariner, has a silver dial that is not manufactured anymore. You are able to tell because of the "Swiss-T<25" writing at the bottom of the dial. Rolex stopped adding "Swiss-T<25" or "Swiss-T 25" in 1998 and started using "Swiss Made" when the watch makers stopped using Tritium as the emitting light source. The Submariner also features a custom silver bezel with black lettering and a red dot where the 12 o'clock is located.



The black Submariner is for a customer who wanted a custom dial to match his lifestyle. "Arkamix" wanted electric blue lettering for his name as well as the Submariner text. A nice sapphire stone would sit pretty on top of the bezel as well. There is really nothing we can't do and the sky is the limit when it comes to customizing Rolex watches.

A Little Rolex Air King History

The Rolex Air King is a perennial favorite in the Rolex line, and has always been a handsome watch at an even more handsome price. What is not so well known is its history and how it first came about. It’s an interesting story and bears repeating here at the Time and Gems Blog.

Rolex was a popular watch among pilots in England in the 1930s and was the watch among British RAF pilots, the heroic “Few” that Churchill immortalized during the Battle of Britain in 1940. They appreciated the tough, accurate watches with the burgeoning Rolex reputation for durability and water resistance. After World War II, the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, recalled the favor Rolex had been shown by the British pilots. According to eminent Rolex historian James Dowling, it was then that Wilsdorf introduced the first Rolex watches with high-flying names: names like the Air Tiger, Air Lion, Air Giant and the Air King. These were all initially hand-wound watches featuring the classic 10.5 ligne hunter movement. In later years after the other models were dropped from the line, the Air King was upgraded to an Oyster Perpetual or automatic movement.

So when you’re wearing a Rolex Air King, you’re carrying on a proud tradition. It’s a tradition that recalls the dark days of 1940 when England stood alone against the forces of darkness in Hitler’s Nazi Germany. On August 16, 1940 Winston Churchill visited RAF 11 Group’s operations room during the height of the battle. Listening to the sounds of the bitter battle on the radio and viewing it overhead in the skies above, he could only say: “Don’t speak to me. I have never been so moved.” A few minutes later he looked up and spoke the immortal words, “Never in the field of human conflict has so much been owed by so many to so few.” That’s what the Air King recalls, in a very special way. It’s history on your wrist.

Which Rolex Model Holds The Most Value? I’m often asked by Rolex buyers, particularly first time buyers, which Rolex model holds the most value? As a brand, Rolex and their watches are reputed to depreciate far less than other luxury brands. By and large, I’ve found this assertion to be absolutely true. They’re also extremely liquid, meaning that you can quickly and easily sell most Rolex watch models via a variety of methods. Certainly many, many Rolex buyers never intend to sell their beloved watches – particularly if received as a gift. But it’s nice to know that if an unforeseen disaster strikes, that watch on your wrist can act as a lifeboat, and not an anchor.

Historically speaking, stainless steel Rolex models have retained a higher percentage of their retail value than the precious metal (gold, platinum, etc.) models. That’s not necessarily saying that precious metal models are to be avoided – typically they’re just discounted more readily and at a higher rate than the stainless steel models by authorized dealers. But the trend it, they tend to take a fairly sharp value hit at the time of purchase, but then hold fairly steady for years thereafter. The stainless steel models, by comparison, take a lesser “hit” after their initial purchase, and tend to actually rise in value as the years go by. The reason? Rolex regularly increases the retail price of their watches, which has a similar effect on the pre-owned market. So if you buy and hold long enough, the value of your stainless steel Rolex could potentially increase to the point where it would eventually be worth more than you paid.

Within the stainless steel Rolex choices, four models come to mind as the surest “bets” in terms of models which retain their value – The Submariner 16610, the Sea-Dweller 16600, The Daytona 116520, and the GMT Master II 16710. It should be noted that both the Sea-Dweller 16600 (which was replaced by the Deep Sea Sea-Dweller) and the GMT Master II 16710 (replaced by the 116710 GMT Master II) have been discontinued. But very little historical pricing data is available with regards to the newer models which replaced them. The Submariner 16610 is also likely to be discontinued in 2010, when Rolex is predicted to introduce the replacement 116610 Submariner. The Daytona 116520 all stainless steel Daytona, in either white or black dial variations, is the modern Rolex which best retains its value, due to the fact that It’s an extremely rare model. Most Rolex authorized dealers are allocated only 1-2 stainless steel Daytona’s each year. Demand is so strong for the Daytona, that pre-owned models have historically sold well in excess of their retail price, though global economic factors have somewhat diminished the price of a pre-owned Daytona in recent years.


Whether you choose to purchase a stainless steel or precious metal Rolex, the best way to make sure your Rolex holds its value is to buy it right to begin with. Walking into a Rolex Authorized Dealer and paying full retail plus tax for your watch can mean it may never appreciate enough to recapture the full purchase price. Purchasing a pre-owned Rolex from Time and Gems can not only save you a lot of money up front, but also can mean the difference between losing money and making money if and when the time comes to sell your Rolex.

Watch of The Week Wednesday

Here at Time&Gems we wanted to show our customers and friends what kind of customizations we do as well as other fun things we happen to run across throughout the week. This idea is the basis for 'Watch of the week Wednesday' which will be updated every Wednesday. If you have any ideas or watches you want to see on here feel free to leave a comment or email spencer@timeandgems.com.

This week we just finished a custom Rolex Sea-Dweller. As you can see we applied the military grade black DLC coating on the band, black bezel and a custom yellow dial. This classic watch with a small twist to set off just enough to really capture your eye. The color scheme, black with yellow, reminds me of an Auedmars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore that Raphael at TimeTapestry just picked up and dubbed "The bumblebee" granted our is a fraction of the price

So what do you think of it? Is it too much color for you? Is it too discreet? Would you rather have a black carbon fiber dial?

Orlando Bloom Will Get His Rolex Back

Jonathan Ajar pleads no contest to stealing Orlando Bloom's Rolex earlier today. District attorney spokesperson, Jane Robison says that the 27 year old Ajar will be sentenced mid April.

Ajar could face up to three years in state prison with additional charged still pending. The other charged include: possession of a controlled substance with intent to sell and possession of a firearm. He is currently behind hind bars with no word on a set amount of money for bail.

He has been linked with other high profile burglaries around Los Angeles including the homes of Paris Hilton and Lindsay Lohan.

We don't for a fact what kind of Rolex was taken but we believe it was a Rolex Explorer II “Steve McQueen” model with leather strap.

Rolex Prices/ Buying Guide - Rolex Mens Datejust

In this guide you will learn:

1. What makes the Rolex Mens Datejust a good buy
2. Rolex Mens Datejust History
3. Rolex Mens Datejust Features Available
4. Preowned/ Used Rolex Mens Datejust Prices

What makes the Rolex Mens Datejust a good buy?

The Rolex Datejust for men is the most recognizable of all models that Rolex carries. It was one of the first models that Rolex introduced and was the design that many other future models were based off of. It's instantly recognizable as a "Rolex" on the wrist and also has the largest number of configurations.

If you're looking to buy your first Rolex, you can't go wrong with the Rolex Datejust - it comes in stainless steel, two-tone and even all gold varities (newer models) as well as countless number of bezel and dial variations unlike Sport models that have only a handful.

In terms of price, the Rolex Datejust sits between the most expensive models like the Rolex President and the Rolex Daytona and the least expensive Rolex Airking or No-Date models.

Rolex Mens Datejust History

Introduced in 1945 as the Rolex Jubilee Datejust to commemorate the 40th jubilee of the founding of Rolex, the Jubilee Datejust's look would last 60 years and identify the market that Rolex would attain and completely conquer.

The most dramatic change in the Rolex Datejust is the addition in 1954 of the cyclops date magnifier, showing up as a bump in the crystal above the date. This feature would also go on to become a signature for the Rolex line.

One interesting note is that it wasn't until 1965, when the Day-Date (Rolex President) was introduced that Rolex would allow the Datejust to be purchased with other bracelet types. Having it's flagship product come in anything but a Jubilee band was naturally unacceptable to Rolex. However upon the introduction of the Day-Date, the Datejust became available with Jubilee, Oyster and leather bands.

Rolex Mens Datejust Features Available

Metals available:	Stainless Steel, 2-Tone (18K Yellow/Rose Gold & Stainless-Steel), Yellow Gold, White Gold
Movement:	Automatic
Bracelet:	Matching Jubilee, Oyster, Leather Band
Bezel:	Stainless Steel Domed, White Gold Fluted, 18K Gold w/ Pave-set Diamonds
Case Size:	36mm
Date:	Yes - with Cyclops magnification
Other functions:	Waterproof to 100 metres/330 feet

Buying Tips: The Rolex Mens Datejust has gone through very few external design changes since it's introduction. This makes it easy to find pre-owned models from the 60's - 80's that have been serviced and polished and look almost new at a great price.

If you're looking for something a bit flashier, there are many mens Datejust models that have been fitted with refinished Rolex dials of different colors and set with genuine aftermarket diamonds. Diamond set bezels are also common, and these can be had a fraction of the cost a similar new "all-original" Rolex diamond bezel would cost, while still being high quality and almost impossible to distinguish with the naked eye.

Preowned/ Used Rolex Mens Datejust Prices

	High End	Mid-Range	Low-End
Retail Price	$10400	$8750	$5550
New Models	2-Tone Stainless Steel and 18K (Yellow/Rose) Gold with fluted or domed bezel and diamond dial.	2-Tone Stainless Steel and 18K (Yellow/Rose) Gold with fluted or domed bezel and NO diamond dial or Stainless Steel models with a diamond dial.	Stainless Steel with Domed bezel and variety of dials (no diamonds). Jubilee or Oyster band.
New Prices	$8625	$7275	$4625
Used Models	Newer models (also referred to as "new-style") 100% factory (all-original) 2-Tone models 100% factory (all-original) Stainless Steel models with diamond dials Showroom condition or barely worn Highly customized - i.e. dial completely covered in diamonds	Older models 1970 - 1990's 2-Tone and Stainless Steel models Customized with refinished diamond dials AND aftermarket diamond bezels	Older models – 1960’s to 1980’s Stainless Steel or 2-Tone No-Date models Customized with refinished diamond dials
Used Prices	$4500	$3300	$2400

Testimonial - John Holbrook, II | rolexreferencepage.com Those of you who are familiar with my Rolex articles on www.rolexreferencepage.com are probably aware that my favorite watch to wear in my collection is my two-tone, blue dial Rolex Submariner model 16613. The iridescent blue dial combined with the two-tone look is just fabulous. I've had an F Series 16613 for several years, and recently someone of my acquaintance admired the watch so much that they made me an offer to buy it from me that I couldn't refuse. This put me in the situation of having to replace the watch. I had actually been thinking of getting one of the last production models of the 16613 (which Rolex replaced just this year with the ceramic bezel 116613 Submariner) which has the new "RolexRolexRolex" engraving on the rehaut (or what some call the inner bezel).